This time of year - it takes about 2 weeks to get a carb. Please let me know if you need it faster. Sometimes we carry a new one in the race trailer.

DESIGNED FOR DIRTcar and other 602 Crate Series TRACKS.

Comes with Free Red Carb topper to keep carb clean as you work on the engine without the air cleaner on. It even has holes for your spark plugs when changing them!

We think this is the best 602 Crate Carb you can get - hands down! We've worked with CarbMaster Bob O to design and race-prep this carb specifically for KillerCrate 602 Race Engines that run under DIRTcar rules as well most all series that have specific limits and Stock style Carb Rules - but allow an upgrade to Billet Metering Blocks as an option.

You'll see 10-14hp gain and low end, better pull off the corner. And, better off the corner means you'll have more top end at the end of the straight away.

THIS CARB IS LEGAL for DIRTcar applications. PM us if you are interested in sending us one of your carb Cores that we can remanufacture into a KillerCrate Holley Super Carb or buy the Carb Spa Treatment. We can turn your existing core into a KillerCrate Carb at 1/2 the price of new. Contact us if you have questions.

Shipping and Insurance Included in the USA.

Contact us for availability.

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NOTE FOR TRACKS THAT DO NOT HAVE CARB CFM RESTRICTIONS : There are tracks which allow 4-bbl Carbs without size restrictions and even allow up to 750s. In our experience - A 750 is too big for a 602 Crate. If you race in one of these series, then you want the KillerCrate Super Carb.

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NOTES:
1. WATER TEMP. The engine needs to be up to operating temp. If you go out on the track with the water under 180 and it stays there or lowers you will have a miss off the corner. In the summer the temperature will stay up. When it’s cold - you should ALWAYS pre-heat the oil and engine with both a moroso heating pad and then warming up the engine. We recommend in-line thermostats when it’s cold out and that solves the problem. You may also need to pull a blade off the fan to let the engine run warmer on cool nights spring and fall.

2. FLOAT LEVELS: We start at 1/2 in front1/4 in the rear on the sight bowl. This is checked with the carburetor level both front to back and side to side with a maximum fuel pressure of 6 psi. If the water temperature is up and problem continues he can lower the floats 1/4 turn.

3. FUEL PRESSURE: Get a high quality fuel pump that pushes 6.5 to 7 lbs of pressure constantly. We recommend the CV Spin. You want 6-7lbs of pressure when the engine is at racing RPM. NEVER up at 8 or 9lbs. We use the 1.2 needle and seat which is bigger than the standard 1.1s. This larger needle and seat reduces bubbles in the fuel as it fills the bowl and allows the bowl fill faster. But it also makes it more sensitive to inconsistent fuel pumps and floats settings that are way off.